Food influencers v critics: Why credibility counts

Food critic Jay Rayner, who writes for the Financial Times, believes his role is to write “as interesting, entertaining [and] truthful column” as he can.

“I don’t think there’s much truth in the idea that the newspaper critic is dead,” he said. “What I see happening is an awful lot more media around restaurants, full stop.

“I know, anecdotally, that a good review from me still results in many bookings, which is lovely – but it’s not actually a concern of mine.”

He said people sometimes ask if influencers “pose a challenge to what you do”.

“My response is, ‘only if it’s better than what I do’,” said Rayner, stressing his authority as a critic is not unassailable. “I do not have a right to my lofty perch.”

Rayner said newspapers such as the Financial Times would “pick up the bill” for critics writing reviews, whereas a lot of influencers were invited to eat for nothing, which is something consumers should be aware of.

“That does undermine the credibility of the review,” he said. “[But] you know, we’re all celebrating the culture of eating food and eating out.”